2008 Woodie Awards
Café pleases Provençal pallette
Kaity Potak
Issue date: 10/9/08 Section: Local News
What happens when a Provençal chef with 30 years of gastronomic experience graduates from "La Colline" in Montpellier, France and moves to the United States? He ends up in a different Montpelier entirely - The New England Culinary Institute in Montpelier, Vt, that is. Chef Robert Barral, a man who has opened restaurants and worn a toque, (the quintessential white chef's hat) in cities ranging from Montreal, Chicago and Boston, is just such a chef. Eventually settling in Brandon, Vt. Barral and his wife Line opened Café Provence. Working alongside a kitchen staff comprised of graduates and interns of the New England Culinary Institute (NECI), Barre and his wife seek to blend the Mediterranean cuisine of the South of France with the local flavor of the Vermont Fresh Network.
Upon entering the quaint restaurant, one is immediately greeted by the delicious scents of Robert's delicate entrées. Whiffs of bouillabaisse on saffron risotto with lobster and tarragon broth waft through the first step, followed by the aroma of caramelizing sugar on crème brûlée. The tantalizing waft of flavors makes the first impression, which, in turn, is enhanced by the friendly wait staff and pleasant atmosphere and furthered by the ample wine list.
Enjoying a glass of the Café Provence white label is a particularly good way to peruse the menu, which features everything from classic moules marinières to an intriguing pan-seared salmon-wrapped scallop dish served over squid ink pasta. Our party's excitement over the menu was slightly snuffed when the waiter announced that they were out of the escargots provençale, the corn and sweet potato chowder, and the lamb entrée - it was only 7:30 p.m. - but we did not suffer too much. Instead of the escargot appetizer, we enjoyed beautifully prepared salads with local chèvre and a crab cake appetizer with two sauces. Ultimately, our entrée decisions included the baked scrod with curried lentils and puréed sweet potatoes, which ended up being a great second choice, and that eerie squid ink pasta that was actually delicious.
Upon entering the quaint restaurant, one is immediately greeted by the delicious scents of Robert's delicate entrées. Whiffs of bouillabaisse on saffron risotto with lobster and tarragon broth waft through the first step, followed by the aroma of caramelizing sugar on crème brûlée. The tantalizing waft of flavors makes the first impression, which, in turn, is enhanced by the friendly wait staff and pleasant atmosphere and furthered by the ample wine list.
Enjoying a glass of the Café Provence white label is a particularly good way to peruse the menu, which features everything from classic moules marinières to an intriguing pan-seared salmon-wrapped scallop dish served over squid ink pasta. Our party's excitement over the menu was slightly snuffed when the waiter announced that they were out of the escargots provençale, the corn and sweet potato chowder, and the lamb entrée - it was only 7:30 p.m. - but we did not suffer too much. Instead of the escargot appetizer, we enjoyed beautifully prepared salads with local chèvre and a crab cake appetizer with two sauces. Ultimately, our entrée decisions included the baked scrod with curried lentils and puréed sweet potatoes, which ended up being a great second choice, and that eerie squid ink pasta that was actually delicious.
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